Mouse Not Working on Windows 11? Fix USB & Bluetooth

Check if the mouse works at all by trying it in a different USB port. Not a USB hub — directly into the motherboard ports on the back of the tower, or the USB-A ports on the side of a laptop. USB hubs, especially unpowered ones, cause more mouse problems than people realize. A $6 Amazon hub powers four devices off one USB 2.0 port’s 500mA, and the mouse works fine until you plug a phone charger into the same hub and suddenly there’s not enough juice for the optical sensor.

If you’re on Bluetooth, forget the mouse and re-pair it. Settings, Bluetooth & devices, find your mouse, click the three dots, Remove device. Then put the mouse back in pairing mode — usually hold a button on the bottom for 3-5 seconds until an LED blinks — and pair again. Bluetooth LE devices like the Logitech Pebble or MX series paired on an older Windows version sometimes lose their pairing profile during feature updates. Windows keeps the old Bluetooth keys but the encryption parameters changed and the mouse connects but doesn’t actually send input data. Re-pairing generates fresh keys.

A tricky case: on a custom desktop, the mouse works for thirty seconds after plugging it in, then dies. Move it to another port — thirty seconds, dies. The keyboard is fine the whole time. Device Manager shows no yellow triangles and the USB controllers look healthy, and a different mouse behaves the same way. The cause can be a bad USB 3.0 header cable on the case’s front panel, making the entire USB controller reset every half minute. Disconnect the front panel header from the motherboard and use the rear ports only — before buying new mice that won’t fix anything.

Drivers and Software

Open Device Manager, expand “Mice and other pointing devices.” Right-click your mouse, Uninstall device, check “Delete the driver software,” restart. Windows reinstalls a clean generic HID driver on reboot. This often helps when the existing driver got corrupted during a Windows Update or a botched manufacturer driver install.

Razer Synapse and Logitech G HUB are two pieces of software that commonly cause trouble. Synapse occasionally decides your mouse doesn’t exist after its own update — close Synapse, unplug the mouse, open Synapse, plug mouse back in, let it re-detect. G HUB has a conflict with the 24H2 HID driver that causes input lag or total input loss on mice with onboard profiles. If you use G HUB, open it, click your mouse, settings gear, toggle off “Onboard Memory Mode.” That mode tries to write DPI and macro settings directly to mouse firmware, and the protocol clashes with 24H2’s updated HID stack.

For generic mice with no brand software, the issue is almost always a corrupt HID driver or ghost devices. Device Manager, View menu, check “Show hidden devices.” Under “Mice and other pointing devices,” look for grayed-out entries — those are phantom devices from mice you used to have plugged in. Right-click each gray one, Uninstall. Ghost HID entries can hold locks on input channels and prevent your current mouse from registering. If the mouse itself moves fine but your right-click context menu won’t show up, that’s a shell/Explorer problem, not a hardware one. Same deal if the cursor moves but dragging files stopped working — that’s usually a stuck mouse button state or an Explorer registration issue, not the mouse itself.

USB Power Management

I wish more guides talked about this because it’s the fix for the most frustrating symptom — mouse freezes randomly for a second or two, then comes back, and you can never reproduce it on demand.

Device Manager, expand “Universal Serial Bus controllers,” double-click every “USB Root Hub” entry — usually 3-6 of them — Power Management tab, uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.” Windows power management puts USB ports to sleep after seconds of low activity. Office mice polling at 125Hz sometimes don’t generate enough traffic to keep the port awake. Port sleeps, mouse freezes, you jiggle it, port wakes up half a second later.

Also check USB Selective Suspend — search “Edit power plan” in Start, Change advanced power settings, USB settings, USB selective suspend setting, Disabled. That’s the system-level version of the same thing. Between the Device Manager checkboxes and this one setting you’ve killed the two most common causes of intermittent mouse drops.

If the mouse is genuinely dead — confirmed it doesn’t work on another computer either — a wired USB mouse is $8 and a decent wireless one $15. Past a certain point replacing is faster than diagnosing. But if your keyboard stopped working too, the problem is upstream — USB controller or a driver conflict hitting all HID devices. Our PC diagnostic covers the full USB and driver stack if you’re stuck on drops you can’t pin down.